Continued from Europe 2016 – Part 7.
Genoa – An outstanding food destination
The food, produce and restaurants in Genoa, and the region of Liguria, are remarkable by any standard. Any visitor will notice how eating is such a natural part of Genoese life, with a food culture driven not by mass tourism but by a discerning and engaged local public. While there are few ‘fine dining’ establishments there is an extraordinary choice in regard to traditional cuisine.
In this post we will just touch on some of the gourmet experiences. Included at the end is a recipe for mixed mushroom pasta.
The large port area is the scene of frequent gastronomic festivities.
Pesto originated in Genoa, hence, pesto alla genovese! Naturally it features often on menus and in various forms. If you are interested, and are willing to translate the Italian, there is apparently an official recipe for pesto: see official recipe.
Foccacio (flat bread with similarities to pizza) and farinata (chickpea based pancakes/crepes) are other regional specialties widely available; you will find an outlet in most streets.
It would be a brave person who said that Genoese pizzas don’t match the best anywhere. One of our favourites is La Sosta degli Artisti in Piazza San Donato where flavours of Gorgonzola, poricini and truffles make it very difficult to find a seat in the evenings.
As you would expect, the main market, Mercato Orientale, is extraordinary with wonderful seafood a standout.
Behind the main market is one of our favourite restaurants, Osteria della Piazza. It is where you can find many traditional dishes. Perfect for lunch after your market visit.
Piazza delle Erbe is one of the main meeting places for food and drink. If you stop for a pre-dinner drink, at 5.30 say, don’t be surprised to be served a free platter of nibbles (foccacio, nuts, …) called aperitivo, a tradition found throughout the city.
In addition to the main market and occasional street markets, there are numerous traditional greengrocers, bakeries, fish mongers and delicatessens in most streets, especially in the old town. They are yet to succumb to the weight of the large supermarket chains.
There are refined cake shops and coffee specialists and wine outlets selling Ligurian and other Italian wine.
If you stay for several days or longer, getting an apartment is the way to go as the vast range of produce and ingredients will make you want to cook. Of a morning, head into the streets to buy fresh bread and pastries for breakfast and at night grab some wonderful fresh pasta for a cook-up.
On this last trip the mushroom season was just starting. We bought up at the market and stopped by Pasta Fresca to buy beautiful tagliatelle. We ate our mixed mushroom pasta dish on the terrace of our sixth floor apartment in the middle of the old town.
For the recipe, click here: Mixed Mushroom Pasta
Continued in Europe 2016 – Part 9 where we head north of Genoa to Alba and the wine regions of Barolo and Barbaresco.